One thing I really love about Spain is the morning coffee at the many bars in Spain. The definition of bar in Spain is a bit different than what we have in the US. There is alcohol but in the morning it is a coffee shop. All bars have an espresso machine and offer a few breakfast items – some pastries, the ubiquitous Spanish omelette, and toasted bread.
In the morning, Spaniards, mostly men, go to the bar and get a morning coffee drink, sometimes with a little shot of brandy or the local liquor. The most common drink is a cafe con leche coming in varying sizes. Sometimes a cortado which is equal parts espresso shot and warm/hot milk so a very small drink. Only tourists or pilgrims get a “latte” which is a bigger version of the cafe con leche.
Sadly, with my limited Spanish this was what I was often given when I ordered a cafe con leche. I would have preferred what that the locals all which is a smaller version, served in a small glass about 2-3 inches high. The glass sits under the spout filling with espresso and then it is brought to the counter and the “barista” pours in the milk until the small glass is full. You watch as all the wonderful colors combine into your cafe. It isn’t fancy but it is delicious.
My Camino mornings always started in a bar, with the thunk, thunk sound as grounds are emptied from the portafilter…. Then new beans are ground – directly into the basket. Some light tamping (lighter than I do at home) then engaged into the espresso machine with a firm slide – a button is pushed then the wonderful sound as your coffee is dispensed.
Meanwhile the bar worker is multi-tasking, getting a cup and saucer ready at the counter with sugar and a spoon. The milk is checked to make sure it is hot and ready to be added. Sometimes they do other things… morning time at Spanish bars is incredibly busy as the counter person is doing a hundred different things for all their patrons.
Finally your espresso shot is complete, the barkeep brings your coffee shot to the counter and you watch as he or she adds the milk creating the most beautiful color in the world. With a quick gracias, you grab your coffee and the best part of the day is about to begin.
The best morning experience I had on this Camino was in a suburb of Leon. I had a sad time in Leon. I don’t know why – it was a big city and I felt alone and like a foreigner. It was a holiday so families and couples were out and about enjoying the day off.
I was anxious to get back on the Camino, my “home” , so I headed out into the dark at 7am. As I walked through the quiet streets of Leon – I had my eyes peeled for a bar, but at that early hour I saw none open. Finally as I was walking along a busy highway in the Leon suburb of La Virgen del Camino, across the street I saw a beaming yellow light. As I got closer I could see it was in fact an open bar. Inside were polizei with their yellow and black jackets, and a sea of orange vested workers. It was crowded but I knew it was my last chance before a long section of walking.
I crossed the highway and stepped inside. The noise was deafening after a quiet morning of walking. The line at the bar was three deep. Eventually I muscled my way to the front – my gray hair and large backpack probably helped clear a path. I ordered in my clumsy Spanish… two young bar ladies were working hard to keep up with the shouted demands. I noticed the Polizei took priority – they didn’t need to order, their drinks were known and dispensed to them quickly.
My small glass of cafe with milk arrived shortly (for the low price of 1.30€) and I found a table in the corner that I shared with a Spanish couple (also doing the Camino although they looked much better dressed than I!). I sipped and soaked in the atmosphere. In that moment, all was right again.
Amy's Camino 